Makeup Know How – Eyes

I remember countless years of watching soaps like The Bold and the Beautiful and I was absolutely obsessed with the makeup application on the actors. The eye shadows, the seamless blending, the blurred skin. Wow. I suppose it’s partly the reason why I focus A LOT of time on perfecting my eyes.

Today we’re on to Part 2 of our Makeup Know How series. Here is the previous post on base makeup if you’re interested. Lets delve into the world of making up your eyes. Also apologies for the unsightly smudges on EVERYTHING. You can tell they’re well loved and used.

If you’re here from my YouTube channel hello again and here I’ll break everything down even more if you were a bit unsure of a step in the video. Use together and you’ll become a professional in no time 😀

My video if you’d like to watch here

Let’s Begin!

Apply eye products with:

  • Brushes, if you can possibly get your hands on some

Pros  The difference in your makeup application as opposed to using the little applicator sponge things that come in drug store/pharmacy cosmetics and real brushes will amaze you. High end brands sometimes will supply a brush with their packaging.

Read my blog post on My Brush Recommendations

Cons – Washing your makeup brushes regularly for hygiene.

  • Your fingers, they’re for free!

Pros – Packing on colours to the lid

Cons – Not so great for blending

1. Prep n’ Primer

Now if you’ve read my previous post here you’ll know I don’t use a primer on my face (partly because I can’t find one that works for me at an affordable price!) however when it comes to the eyelid game, prime prime baby all the way! I have been using the same eye primer for years, I’m talking 7+ years. I’ve purchased countless pots of MAC Pro-longwear Paint Pot in Soft Ochre a rich, creamy yellow cream and won’t buy anything else! Depending on your skin tone you can opt for another shade in that range called Painterly which I tried however it was just too cool toned for me.

Primer acts to create a blank canvas on the eyelid and protects from oils seeping into eye shadow and absorbing all the hard work you’ve done creating that beautiful smokey eye. If you have very oily eyelids then this will help with longevity, staying power and the overall colours will look more vibrant. If you don’t have oily lids then you can add foundation to your lids or concealer and a pressed powder. Try both out to experiment which works best for you and don’t forget to give your lower lash line a little love too!

20180529_132119
MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot, Soft Ochre $38.00AUD

If you’re looking for a cheaper alternative, I suggest Essence Cosmetics eye primers as they are affordable for a beginner. Then you can work your way up, a great starting point!

2. Eye Shadows! (The Fun Bit)

20180529_135110
Pick a palette, any palette. Tarte’s Toasted & In Bloom, Urban Decay Naked 1, Too Faced Chocolate Bar

Now as a general rule, I always like to apply a loose or pressed translucent powder to my lids before applying shadow as it smooths the lid and gives it an extra prepping before colours are applied. Also helps the brush blend colours more easily.

Now what you do next depends completely on the eye look you’re trying to create but I can start by giving a basic breakdown of a basic contoured eye shadow application a look I learned very early on and a classic eye look that will never go out of style.

 

20180529_135423
Urban Decay Naked Basics 2. Perfect matte blend of colours for that classic contoured eye look. From left to right, Skimp- Pale yellow, Stark – Off white, Frisk – Cool taupe, Cover – Medium brown, Primal – Cool chocolate brown, Undone – Grey charcoal

Basic Contoured Eye Consists of;

2.1. All over lid colour

Apply a matte eye shadow matching similarly to your natural skin tone all over the eye area including under the brows and the lower lash line.

2.2. Transition/Crease Colour

Use: Matte shadows work best as crease colours. Warm or cool tones browns are the most popular choice into your crease, i.e eye socket, the place or crease in between your eyeball and your orbital bone.

Tip: If you have hooded eyes (a hard to define crease) then look down into a mirror and feel for the edge of your eyeball. That’s where you should apply a crease colour.

  • Use at least 3 colours in varying shades of a similar colour of your choice. I think brown is best so; 1 light brown, medium brown and deeper brown. This will give you an overall polished and professional look
  • Lightest to darkest always
  • Blending is key, if unsure, blend some more
  • Imagine as if you wish to create the look of the colours fell effortlessly onto your eyes instead of being smacked on there severely
Eyeshadow
Tarte’s Toasted Palette, I work from s’more, to cashmere, warrior, cozy and fireside. Candle for highlight

2.3. Apply Highlights

The little space under the arch of your eyebrows is a nice place to apply a little shimmer and glow as it creates the illusion of a lift to the eye as the light hits the spot, much like cheek bone highlight.

Tip: Add a touch to the inner corner of your eyes and watch how it opens the eye area up even more!

3. Liner

Apply as close to the lash line as possible top or bottom (but never bottom on it’s own please!) smudge with eye shadow of the same colour to give it some staying power and softness. It can be applied to the waterline or inner rim of your eyes however it does make your eyes appear smaller. Alternatively apply black liner to the upper waterline to tightline. This basically means you’re completely covering any skin coloured part of the inside rim of the lid so that there is no obvious line between your lashes, mascara, liner and the rim of your eyes. Prepare for tears if this is your first time!

Tip: Use a skin coloured or white eyeliner in that area to open the eyes and reduce redness.

Types of Eye Liners

  • Regular Pencils
  • Kajal or Kohl Pencils
  • Retractable/mechanical pencils
  • Liquid or felt tip
  • Gel/cream
  • Brown or black eyeshadows
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Top RIP to my much loved and very dried out MAC Fluidline – Blacktrack Gel liner, Sportsgirl retractable black pencil eyeliner, Maybelline Hypersharp liquid liner blackest black, felt tip.

4. Lashes

Give them a curl if you’re brave! Always helps to open the eyes.

Tip: Warm the eyelash curler up with a hairdryer if you have stubbornly straight lashes that just won’t curl.

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I was always very afraid of eyelash curlers, go slow! A creamy, nude eye pencil helps open the eyes if placed in the inner rim of lower lash line (water line)

5. Mascara

Apply top and bottom with two coats allowing them to dry in between.  I always prefer normal mascara to waterproof (it’s the devil to get off and you can lose a lot of lashes in the process!).

6. Falsies (False Lashes)

If you’re in the mood for extra drama then apply some lashes to suit the eye look you’re trying to create. Always fun but not necessary.

What’s your favourite part of your makeup routine? Comment below 🙂

As always, remember to #loveyourhealth!

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