Makeup Know How – Eyes

I remember countless years of watching soaps like The Bold and the Beautiful and I was absolutely obsessed with the makeup application on the actors. The eye shadows, the seamless blending, the blurred skin. Wow. I suppose it’s partly the reason why I focus A LOT of time on perfecting my eyes.

Today we’re on to Part 2 of our Makeup Know HowΒ series. Here is the previous post on base makeup if you’re interested. Lets delve into the world of making up your eyes.Β Also apologies for the unsightly smudges on EVERYTHING. You can tell they’re well loved and used.

If you’re here from my YouTube channel hello again and here I’ll break everything down even more if you were a bit unsure of a step in the video. Use together and you’ll become a professional in no time πŸ˜€

My video if you’d like to watch here

Let’s Begin!

Apply eye products with:

  • Brushes, if you can possibly get your hands on some

ProsΒ  The difference in your makeup application as opposed to using the little applicator sponge things that come in drug store/pharmacy cosmetics and real brushes will amaze you. High end brands sometimes will supply a brush with their packaging.

Read my blog post on My Brush Recommendations

Cons – Washing your makeup brushes regularly for hygiene.

  • Your fingers, they’re for free!

Pros –Β Packing on colours to the lid

Cons –Β Not so great for blending

1. Prep n’ Primer

Now if you’ve read my previous postΒ here you’ll know I don’t use a primer on my face (partly because I can’t find one that works for me at an affordable price!) however when it comes to the eyelid game, prime prime baby all the way! I have been using the same eye primer for years, I’m talking 7+ years. I’ve purchased countless pots of MAC Pro-longwear Paint Pot in Soft Ochre a rich, creamy yellow cream and won’t buy anything else! Depending on your skin tone you can opt for another shade in that range called Painterly which I tried however it was just too cool toned for me.

Primer acts to create a blank canvas on the eyelid and protects from oils seeping into eye shadow and absorbing all the hard work you’ve done creating that beautiful smokey eye. If you have very oily eyelids then this will help with longevity, staying power and the overall colours will look more vibrant. If you don’t have oily lids then you can add foundation to your lids or concealer and a pressed powder. Try both out to experiment which works best for you and don’t forget to give your lower lash line a little love too!

20180529_132119
MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot, Soft Ochre $38.00AUD

If you’re looking for a cheaper alternative, I suggest Essence Cosmetics eye primers as they are affordable for a beginner. Then you can work your way up, a great starting point!

2. Eye Shadows! (The Fun Bit)

20180529_135110
Pick a palette, any palette. Tarte’s Toasted & In Bloom, Urban Decay Naked 1, Too Faced Chocolate Bar

Now as a general rule, I always like to apply a loose or pressed translucent powder to my lids before applying shadow as it smooths the lid and gives it an extra prepping before colours are applied. Also helps the brush blend colours more easily.

Now what you do next depends completely on the eye look you’re trying to create but I can start by giving a basic breakdown of a basic contoured eye shadow application a look I learned very early on and a classic eye look that will never go out of style.

 

20180529_135423
Urban Decay Naked Basics 2. Perfect matte blend of colours for that classic contoured eye look. From left to right, Skimp- Pale yellow, Stark – Off white, Frisk – Cool taupe, Cover – Medium brown, Primal – Cool chocolate brown, Undone – Grey charcoal

Basic Contoured Eye Consists of;

2.1. All over lid colour

Apply a matte eye shadow matching similarly to your natural skin tone all over the eye area including under the brows and the lower lash line.

2.2. Transition/Crease Colour

Use: Matte shadows work best as crease colours. Warm or cool tones browns are the most popular choice into your crease, i.e eye socket, the place or crease in between your eyeball and your orbital bone.

Tip: If you have hooded eyes (a hard to define crease) then look down into a mirror and feel for the edge of your eyeball. That’s where you should apply a crease colour.

  • Use at least 3 colours in varying shades of a similar colour of your choice. I think brown is best so; 1 light brown, medium brown and deeper brown. This will give you an overall polished and professional look
  • Lightest to darkest always
  • Blending is key, if unsure, blend some more
  • Imagine as if you wish to create the look of the colours fell effortlessly onto your eyes instead of being smacked on there severely
Eyeshadow
Tarte’s Toasted Palette, I work from s’more, to cashmere, warrior, cozy and fireside. Candle for highlight

2.3. Apply Highlights

The little space under the arch of your eyebrows is a nice place to apply a little shimmer and glow as it creates the illusion of a lift to the eye as the light hits the spot, much like cheek bone highlight.

Tip: Add a touch to the inner corner of your eyes and watch how it opens the eye area up even more!

3. Liner

Apply as close to the lash line as possible top or bottom (but never bottom on it’s own please!) smudge with eye shadow of the same colour to give it some staying power and softness. It can be applied to the waterline or inner rim of your eyes however it does make your eyes appear smaller. Alternatively apply black liner to the upper waterline to tightline. This basically means you’re completely covering any skin coloured part of the inside rim of the lid so that there is no obvious line between your lashes, mascara, liner and the rim of your eyes. Prepare for tears if this is your first time!

Tip: Use a skin coloured or white eyeliner in that area to open the eyes and reduce redness.

Types of Eye Liners

  • Regular Pencils
  • Kajal or Kohl Pencils
  • Retractable/mechanical pencils
  • Liquid or felt tip
  • Gel/cream
  • Brown or black eyeshadows
20180529_135230
Top RIP to my much loved and very dried out MAC Fluidline – Blacktrack Gel liner, Sportsgirl retractable black pencil eyeliner, Maybelline Hypersharp liquid liner blackest black, felt tip.

4. Lashes

Give them a curl if you’re brave! Always helps to open the eyes.

Tip: Warm the eyelash curler up with a hairdryer if you have stubbornly straight lashes that just won’t curl.

20180529_135332
I was always very afraid of eyelash curlers, go slow! A creamy, nude eye pencil helps open the eyes if placed in the inner rim of lower lash line (water line)

5. Mascara

Apply top and bottom with two coats allowing them to dry in between.Β  I always prefer normal mascara to waterproof (it’s the devil to get off and you can lose a lot of lashes in the process!).

6. Falsies (False Lashes)

If you’re in the mood for extra drama then apply some lashes to suit the eye look you’re trying to create. Always fun but not necessary.

What’s your favourite part of your makeup routine? Comment below πŸ™‚

As always, remember to #loveyourhealth!

Signature

 

 

 

 

 

 

Makeup Know How – Base

It seems the entire beauty industry is consumed with contouring, baking and strobing and keeping up with these new trends can be a little hard! Whether you like it or not, it has become the quintessential western way of doing your makeup and I for one have certainly jumped on the bandwagon!

There are just so many tutorials these days but many gurus and influencers forget that not everyone knows what baking is unless it’s in the kitchen!

So I thought I’d break down the makeup basics for those who might love a better explanation on makeup application. As soon as I began wearing makeup properly as a 17 year old, I had more people than I can count ask me if I was a Makeup Artist and to that I answered, I am self taught. The one important thing I learnt is that there are no rules in makeup, don’t feel pressured to do anything just because it’s the latest craze or it’s trending on Instagram.

Beauty and makeup should above all else be unique and definitively the way you express your beauty not how someone tells you how to. Take from it what you like, use what you like and work to something you find appropriate for you 😊

Today I share how to create a base and a friendly reminder to subscribe and follow for the next blog on eyes, brows and lips!

Lets begin

Follow your regular skin care routine. Allow at least 30 min for moisturiser and sunscreen to penetrate the skin and kind of mesh with it to create the perfect canvas. If you’re in a hurry or just don’t have the luxury of time on your hands, then 5-10 minutes will do.

1. Primer

Primer is optional and I have never used one honestly so I can’t recommend one currently however this acts as a base for your foundation and helps foundation to ‘stick’. Not essential but handy for those with oily skin that begins breaking down your makeup as soon as you’ve applied it and helps with longevity overall.

2. Foundation

Creates a blank, smooth and flawless complexion.

Depending on the formula, different tools may be better for each.

20180529_132052
Cover FX Custom Cover Drops, G30

Apply with:

  • Fingers

Pros- product warms on your fingers = easy to blend

Cons – easy to waste product = over use & not hygienic

  • Brushes – Paddle or Round Top

Pros Β applies foundation in a more hygienic way

Cons – can exfoliate the skin with use & can create patchy looking makeup and streaky foundation

  • Beauty Sponge

ProsΒ – blends foundation into skin for blurring effect

ConsΒ – sponge can absorb too much product = waste & can be un-hygienic depending on if you’re regularly washing it after use

20180529_131840
Popular, Beauty Blender

3. Concealer

Use under eyes to highlight, counteract dark circles and conceal any blemishes.Β Choose a colour 2 shades lighter than your skin tone.

Pin point conceal blemishes. Pick a neutral based concealer close to your skin colour for hiding blemishes. We want to camouflage the area not highlight it further with a lighter shade.

Apply with:

  • Blend with fingers, sponge or small brush of your choice
  • Thin, paint like brush for any blemishes you wish to conceal

Side note:Β If you concealed under the eyes, now would be best to bake your under eye area and leave it on for a few minutes. Continue with the next step.

4. Cream Contour (Optional)

If using a cream contour then apply before regular face powder and set contoured areas with an ashy/cool toned coloured powder.

20180529_132020
Top to bottom, NARS Radiant Creamy concealer in Light 1 Chantilly, NYX Wonder Stick, highlight and contour stick 01 Light/Medium, L.A. Girl Pro Conceal Concealer in Porcelain

5. Face Powder

To set your work you need to lock in cream/liquid products and they help prevent shine if you’re an oily gal. The key is a little goes a long way. The more you pack on the more you start to look aged and crepey looking. If you baked your eye shadow then remember to dust it off now.

20180529_132232
Bottom, Rimmel Stay Matte pressed powder, top left, Savvy by DB powder in transclucent (not very!) Australis, Banana Powder for ‘baking’

6. Powder Contour (Optional)

Use to sculpt the face, make sections of the face appear smaller/hidden or more defined and/or sharper. Use cool tones of brown or ash browns.

Apply with:

  • Tulip brush
  • Fan brush
  • Straight Edge brush
  • Contour creme stick (the product itself)

7. Bronzer

Add warmth and glow to your skin and create ‘depth’. We don’t want to have mannequin faces! The fairer your skin tone the ashier/cooler the colour should be. We don’t want dusted Cheetos on your skin. The deeper your skin tone the warmer you can go πŸ™‚

8. Blush

Add colour back into your face (after doing everything possible to remove it lol)

Apply with:

  • Fingers (mostly for creams)
  • Tulip Brush
  • Blush Brush
20180529_132338
Models Prefer peachy blush in Celebrity Crush

9. Highlight

Accentuates the natural points of the face the sun hits to give a dewy, fresh, glow.

Apply with:

  • Fingers (mostly for liquid and cream products)
  • Fan Brush
  • Beauty Sponge
20180529_132306
Left, Hourglass Luminous Bronze Light, MAC Soft and Gentle Mineralize Skin Finish highlight

10. Finishing Spray

This is another step, much like primer that I tend to forget because I haven’t really bothered to find one that I like. Honestly, spray your face with a bit of hairspray…it does the same thing! This is probably terrible for your skin though. Try and purchase an actual ‘FinishingΒ  or Setting Spray’ like Urban Decay’s All Nighter Setting Spray.

It helps to melt the powders used on your face to look less cakey and more dewey fresh. This shouldn’t effect your makeup if you’re prone to oil and helps with longevity.

10 steps just for the base!!! It seems like a lot, but as previously mentioned this is a get to know the basics and I want to go in depth with the process. Choose whichever steps you feel comfortable doing and which work for your every day routine.

A Little On Makeup Trends

We owe thanks to the many Drag Queens who essentially use these tricks of the trade daily and they’ve become almost a staple technique in our makeup routines.

Baking or Cooking

No we’re not talking about making cookies tonight love, just the simple art of highlighting under your eyes with a light concealer and pressing a loose or pressed translucent powder to the area and let it ‘cook’ or ‘bake’ to provide ultimate lightness.

Contouring

The contours or hollows of some places on your face can allow for sculpted looking faces with sharp and high cheek bones.

Strobing

Opposite of contouring and kind of like baking except we do this on the cupids bow, around the mouth, chin, right under the contoured bit of our cheek bones and foreheads.

Colour Correcting

Something I have only dabbled in however this is basically using red, orange and green types of cream products to counteract the colours on your face caused by being human basically. Things you want to disappear as fast as Krispy Kreme Doughnuts at a party.

Red/Orange counteracts blue/purple for veins etc.

Green counteracts red for pimples, capillaries etc.

Lilac/purple can create a lightening effect and you may have seen some primers and moisturisers contain lilac pigment to achieve lighter, glowing skin. Very popular in Asian cosmetics.

If you’ve read all up until the very end then I applaud you. Here’s a virtual cookie for your efforts in sticking through this post πŸͺ

I certainly hope you’ve learned a thing or two, be sure to come back to read it again if you’re unsure of anything.

Also please follow me on all my social media to keep up to date with any future videos and posts. Links are on the home page banner.

Remember to love your health!

Signature